The famous pheasant shooting Austrian princess, Pauline Metter- nich-Sándor is the muse for Renli Su’s Spring Summer 2022 collection. Known for her adventurous rebellious spirit Pauline was one of the most socially pioneering women in Europe during the latter half of the nine- teenth century.
The famous Emancipated Duel was fought between Princess Pauline and Countess Anastasia, which supposedly stemmed from a disagreement in flower arrangements. The princess and the countess fought the duel topless to avoid infection, using only women as seconds and for medical purposes. They did not intend to fight to the death – they chose to fight first to blood.
The late 1800s were a difficult time for women’s rights in Europe, and the “Emancipated Duel” was understood through that lens. Across Europe, women demanded the right to vote, but this push for rights was seen as threatening. The Emancipated Duel carried a strong message about women’s capabilities which signified a terrifying new reality to men, who feared women taking control.
For Spring Summer 2022, Renli focuses on androgenous romantic silhou- ettes which represent the bold adventurous nature of Princess Pauline. In combination with these, floral prints drown Renli’s signature metal spun silhouettes in line with her storytelling nature. The colours of the collection reference paintings depicting the duel, muted yellows, and soft peaches, and the subtle greenery of the outdoors.
Rich in textured laces, velvet, and embroidery, the collection embodies the historical reference points of the story, with innovative silhouettes and carefully crafted design details. A collection fit for only the most stylish and fearless princess of the 19th century.
Photographer : Xin Wang
Creative direction & styling : Chilli Zhang
Make up : Kiwi
Hair : Xiao Wu